Alice Givings

Project: Alice Givings

Introduction

Original Look

In the fall of 2018, I served as the costume designer on a production of Sarah Ruhl's In the Next Room, or the Vibrator Play. The dress pictured is one that I designed and drafted for the character "Mrs. Catherine Givings." I used only photographs of the era for reference and was subsequently unsatisfied with the final project.

Flash forward to the spring of 2019 when I served as the costume designer for Ken Ludwig's The Game's Afoot, or Holmes for the Holidays. The play opens in the late 1880's and I chose to reuse this dress for the character "Alice/Aggie," this time placing a blouse under the bodice. This helped to better complete the look, but overall I was still unsatisfied.

Over the years since, I have studied and become more familiar with clothing design, construction methods of the period, and pattern drafting. I now feel better prepared to approach this dress and expect to achieve a more historically accurate look.

The original look was comprised of a skirt and a fully lined bodice. The new final look will be comprised of a complete set of undergarments [chemise, drawers, stockings, shoes, petticoats, bustle and bustle pad, corset, and corset cover], two skirts, and a fully lined and boned bodice.

Update: I have decided to add three more pieces to this project; an evening bodice and overskirt so that the look can transition from day to night, and an overcoat that can be worn over both the day and evening looks.

For the most up-to-date status of this project, follow me on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter!

Phase One: Underwear

Final Look

The underwear layers are complete and will provide a barrier between the wearer's body and the more difficult to launder foundation garments. Each of these items can be tossed in the washer and dryer for easy cleaning whenever needed.

Underwear: Chemise

Chemise

I used Truly Victorian Pattern TV102 to create the chemise. The fabric is a repurposed bed sheet purchased at a local thrift store. The lace at the bottom hem of the chemise is from the end of the bed sheet. The insertion lace was purchased from Jo-Ann Fabrics as was the blue ribbon. For the most part, I followed the construction instructions as written except I chose to sew the shoulder seams together.

Underwear: Split Drawers

Split Drawers

I used Truly Victorian Pattern TV102 to create the split drawers. The fabric is a repurposed bed sheet purchased at a local thrift store. The insertion lace was purchased on Amazon and the blue ribbon from Jo-Ann Fabrics. For the most part, I followed the construction instructions as written except I chose to sew two buttons on each size to allow for quick resizing.

Underwear: Under Petticoat

Under Petticoat

The primary petticoat was made from a self-drafted pattern and I referenced Enchanted Rose Costumes' YouTube video "Making Some Victorian Petticoats" for ideas on construction. The fabrics used were repurposed bedsheets procured from my personal collection as well as a local thrift store. The ribbons and twill tape drawstrings were obtained through Amazon. The middle layer was attached to the yoke with double box pleats and the ruffle was attached using single box pleats. All raw seams and the waistband were finished with grosgrain ribbon.